COPENHAGEN, Denmark – As I step into the arrivals hall for Copenhagen airport, I feel the famed hygge wrap around me like a comforting embrace. Instead of cold, sterile white tiles common in many airports, I’m greeted by beautiful wooden flooring, rich and warm underfoot. This welcoming vibe continues at our hotel, Grand Joanne, just five minutes from Tivoli Gardens, chosen for its reasonable prices, glowing reviews, and the inviting decor reminiscent of Soho House.
The whole time in Copenhagen, I bask in a sense of contentment. This city moves at an easy pace where the locals seem happy, museums allow entry without prior booking, and delightful food options abound. Contrary to rumors of prohibitive costs, we found Copenhagen’s prices comparable to London.
On culinary explorations, we kept an eye out for Danish pastries while approaching Danish bacon with skepticism. Surprisingly, pastries originated in Austria and are predominantly found in Jewish bakeries in London rather than in Copenhagen. As for the Danish bacon? That’s more of a catchy 1970s marketing term than a reality here, something we learned amid the whimsical names of dishes that could fill a Scrabble board.
We found ourselves dining at Kødbyen Fiskebar, a renowned fish restaurant located in a chic district steeped in history. The menu offered a range of seafood options, and the best smørrebrød, or open-faced sandwiches, were found at Torvehallerne, a bustling food hall. Aamans stands out for its exquisite presentation of the famed delicacies paired with crisp wine.
For a Michelin-starred experience, we treated ourselves at The Samuel, situated within a majestic townhouse. The dinner service commenced with obliviously large brioche loaves, followed by an elegant selection of courses presented from a wooden knife box—a touch that added to the luxurious atmosphere. The maitre d’ playfully reminded us that “We are a Viking nation. We like a challenge,” when we hesitated over portion sizes.
A notable vantage point in Copenhagen is Stroget, recognized as the world’s longest pedestrian street. My husband quipped, “the longest shopping street where there’s nothing to buy.”
Wandering through the city with our guide Ronen Thalmay, we delved deep into Jewish history in Denmark. Notably, Denmark had the most significant resistance against the Nazis during World War II. When invaded in 1940, the Danish Prime Minister negotiated terms for peaceful Jewish living, which included not wearing the yellow star.
In a remarkable act of resistance, in September 1943, warnings prompted the smuggling of 7,800 Jews to Sweden in one night. The Museum of Danish Resistance shared stories of survival, where 99 percent of Denmark’s Jewish population endured the war. It’s inspiring to learn that even the Torah scrolls survived, hidden by a caring priest from the church nearby.
Ronen also highlighted Hans Christian Andersen’s ties to the Jewish community, noting he spent time in a Jewish school and claimed Jews were misunderstood outsiders, much like himself. We wrapped up our Jewish heritage walk at the local synagogue, the only one serving around 6,000 Jews in Denmark. Its history is marked by community support, evident in the flowers left by non-Jewish residents during commemorative services.
Tivoli Gardens dazzled us with its enchanting atmosphere, especially as it transformed into a Halloween wonderland at night. The royal residence at Amalienborg Palace features a daily changing of the guard that draws crowds eager to witness tradition. The grandeur of Frederik’s Church with its architectural elegance caught our attention as well.
One highlight was walking through the gardens of Rosenborg Castle, home to the Danish crown jewels, which left us in awe as we explored the historical significance of the pieces.
As our trip neared an end, we made our way to the breathtaking Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. This museum presents an impressive collection of sculptures, including artistic treasures by Rodin, which once belonged to Danish brewing magnate Carl Jacobsen—truly a fitting farewell to a city filled with charm and history. Copenhagen easily stands out as one of the best cities globally, radiating an unmistakable hygge vibe.
